Summary of "Glue-In Technical Information"

This document provides a comprehensive guide on the placement of Fixe glue-in anchors, which are known for their durability, low visual impact, and cost-effectiveness. The process, while somewhat laborious, results in reliable and safe anchors when done correctly.

Key Points

Anchor Placement

• Anchor Quality: Ensure the rock surrounding the anchor is sound, without cracks or weaknesses.
• Positioning: Proper positioning is critical for a quality outcome. Using lateral anchors can improve stability during drilling.
• Rock Testing: Test the rock with a hammer to ensure no noticeable vibration, indicating soundness.

Drilling and Installation

• Surface Preparation: Clean the aged rock surface with a hammer and chisel before drilling.
• Drilling Technique: Start by carving the length of the channel, then drill the main hole for the anchor's shaft at a 15-degree angle from perpendicular to the rock surface.
• Anchor Fitting: Ensure the hole accepts the anchor properly, with the upper channel deeper than the lower one.
• Final Adjustments: It may be necessary to fine-tune the channel or hole's depth and remove outer ridges for smooth clipping and rotation of biners.

Cleaning and Gluing

• Hole Cleaning: Clean the hole meticulously using a brush and blow-out bulb until no more dust comes out.
• Gluing: Follow the glue manufacturer's instructions precisely, ensuring the anchor rests on the rock, with the weld oriented upwards and the hole entirely sealed.

Safety Note

• The document emphasizes the importance of safety measures, such as wearing safety glasses, which were unfortunately omitted in the provided pictures.

Credits

• Climber: Louis-Pierre Tessier
• Route: Les millionaires lac Long, Portneuf county, Quebec
• Photos: Arian Manchego

The document effectively outlines the detailed process of placing Fixe glue-in anchors, emphasizing the importance of careful preparation, precise drilling, and thorough cleaning for optimal safety and functionality.